Almost There

While it may not entirely look like it, the 850T project is finally ready to be started for the first time.  The fuel petcocks have been attached to the tank, and the carbs are on with new lines waiting for the tank.  After the headers are attached, it can be started.  Should be tomorrow.

Completed so far (~60-70%) are:

• frame mounted to engine, along with center and side stands
• U-joint installed, bearings replaced and greased and swing arm mounted
• rear drive attached, with shocks
• headstock bearings greased and triple trees attached
• forks serviced and attached
• all electrical (new harness) laid out and connected, including coils, rec/reg, fuse box, relays

Brake Disc Drilling

This project always seemed to call for a balance between 'factory cafe' and 'custom cafe'.  Thus drilling the front disc had always been part of the project plan.  However, the small risk of creating an un-appealing design or instigating some other disaster kept me from tackling this until now.  Using a neighbor's drill press and a fresh new 1/4" metal drill bit, I finally got started.

First, the pattern and total number of holes; I'd planned on a slightly curved forward arch and more holes, but as I devised a way to mark each hole prior to drilling, the accuracy of each hole placement became a concern.  I thus decided on a slightly more uniform or symmetrical pattern similar to that on my Triumph 675 front discs.  This helped ensure that spacing was uniform.  30 holes will not save a lot of weight nor make the bike stop faster, but I did it primarily for the new experience as well as aesthetics.


Marked the holes with a Sharpie

 Then scored each with a Dremel















Setting up the drill press; mostly wanted to ensure that the disc was flat and that it was fairly secure to the press before each drilling.  This set up worked to accomplish this and still made it easy to rotate the disc and line it up for the next hole.  I also scored each hole mark first with a Dremel tool to prevent the drill bit from wandering (although using a press this was not likely).  Either way, it worked well.

Each hole took only 20 seconds or so, applying intermittent pressure and some cutting oil.  I went around once skipping every other hole, then finished the rest off.  With a total of 30 holes, the whole process took me roughly an hour and a half; much faster than I'd expected.  That includes slightly counter-sinking both sides (60 total) of each hole to take the sharp edge off.

I later ground off some of the rough inner casting with a Dremel tool; then taped off the swept area and painted the inner disc with some semi-gloss black paint before mounting the disc back on the front wheel.

Hand Lever Fix

The Tomaselli clutch lever had experienced a drop at some point and had a bend in the end near the ball (as seen in the photo below).  The brake lever drooped a little also and both needed some attention.  I did not want to buy new ones as I like the way the stock levers look (especially with the Tomaselli grips), so some straightening was required.

Following the obligatory YouTube video review, I grabbed the blow torch and bench vise and got going on the clutch lever.  You can skip the soap trick - all it does is confirm that slow heating for 4-5 min is key for aluminum to ensure it is soft enough to bend and not snap off.  And otherwise just gets black burnt crap all over your lever.  There is no magic temperature, just enough heat and time and care.  A long wrench for feel and leverage found the right application of pressure to slowly bring the ball end back into position.  Using the brake lever as a guide, I first drew an outline of the lever on a large piece of paper (photo below).  This way there was a template to match the shape to so I'd know when to stop.  Worked great and returned to shape just as I'd hoped.  Just a little polishing later and the levers are beautiful and functional once again.

I'd also had to pull out the blowtorch one other time, since the side stand was tucking under the exhaust header too far, making it very difficult to deploy.  I discovered that the open end which clamps the frame had spread open.  Clamping this end in the vise followed by repeated heating and clamping closed the gap back to vertical.  Now when the sidestand is installed, it rests on the lower frame rail tang perfectly, and does not rub against the header.

Sneak Preview !

Since my last post 3 weeks ago, there has been progress despite travel and other obligations.  Much of it, however, provides little to show as it involved long due cleaning and final painting of parts as well as assembly of the shock bushings and forks.  But with the frame back from powdercoating and most other parts ready now, reassembly has finally begun.

Above the photo shows the seat and tank mocked to the frame and engine, near enough in final position.  It should be clear how the direction of the final project, although there are many painted parts (both fenders and side covers) and chromed or polished parts (handlebars, headlight bezel and stator cover and wheels) yet to be added for the final look.

The swingarm and triple trees and forks have also been installed.  Since this photo, both carbs are cleaned and ready to go on (thanks, PJ!); new spark plug caps and wires have been added; the wiring harness has been laid out on the frame and connections are being made.  Not long to go!