Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Lessons in Restoration

During the course of this project, I definitely came to points in the build where I'd regretted a timing or decision from an earlier junction, or after making the same mistake for the fifth time, wished for a more efficient approach.  For example, I purchased several parts very early on which should have been no-brainers, but found out too late to return them that they would not work or were not right (fork springs and m/c rebuild kit for two).  All in all, however, the timing and cost were not too far off my estimates.  The effort required was maybe a little more than I'd hoped for.  But even after much detailed planning, nothing is ever exactly what you think it will be.

Your project may be more or less involved, or may require more sophisticated design and fabrication.  This 850T project called for significant disassembly and cleaning, polishing or de-rusting and painting of almost every component.  Minor brackets were fabricated and solutions required for a host of aesthetic and functional elements.  These are some thoughts I've had on the project as it unfolded, where I frequent uttered the words "next time", before I even knew what I was saying.  Then glanced around to check that my wife was not over-hearing me, as for this one there is no such thing as a next time.  I'm thinking there may be, however....!

So here is my list of lessons following this build.  Not necessarily in any order of importance:
  • be able to summarize your project goal in one or two sentences (there are many decisions to make and this enables a more clear focus on the path forward)
  • have a plan before you pull the trigger on parts, etc
  • know exactly what you are looking for before buying the project base motorcycle (between barn-find, basket-case, survivor, or already partly/mostly restored); your time and effort and final cost will vary significantly.  it can be better to pay more up front for a better starting point
  • do your research in advance; then do some more
  • decide early on what direction you plan to take, between how stock, period, historical vs new, custom, unique, etc
  • start with the most functional, well-sorted bike possible; if it is not functional and well-sorted, get it that way before tackling the major project elements (esp cosmetic such as blasting, painting, etc)
  • ensure all engineering and fabrication are thought-out, executed, and working on the bike before final/complete disassembly for paint, etc
  • new parts - check fit and function on the bike as early as possible after purchase/arrival (if it's wrong you can save time and money in getting it right or exchanging/returning it before 3-4 more months have passed)
  • don't assume because a part is made for the bike it will fit or connect or work as expected; put it on and try it early on
  •  expect the project to take 3 times as long as you first predict, and cost twice as much (in my case, paint alone was over half the entire project build cost, after purchase of the bike itself)
  • use many bins and boxes, with good labels, for parts as they are removed; organization and ensuring parts don't get lost is key
  • cluster similar components together
  • use egg cartons or similar small compartment container to label and track nuts and bolts
  • write down sizes, pitch and length of all bolts (sounds like over-kill, but many times when fitting a new bracket or tossing an old part, a new length bolt or washer or nylock will be needed and this makes it easier to obtain from your local hardware store quickly, with less guessing or trial-and-error)
  • identify parts (esp many nuts and bolts) for de-rusting, de-greasing, cleaning, etc in batches when possible.  this is dirty work and requires chemicals to which you can minimize exposure if you tackle this job fewer times
  • if you're already in there, go ahead and do it now (ie, replacing bearings, seals, o-rings, washers, filters, etc)
  • avoid leaving 'easy' things to the end; they aren't always as easy as you expect them to be
  • buy the right tool for the job and use it; even if one time, chances are that you will need it again
  • wear proper eye and hand protection when doing any task that calls for it
  • don't simply trust any 'expert', 'professional' or other tradesperson with your project outcome or expectations because they've done it before; when specialized work is required, micro-manage every aspect of it.  I had an issue (mostly minor, some not) with every single bit of outside work that I had done (except for paint).  
  • there is a first time for every technical job or task; check the forums, YouTube, etc and try something yourself; trust your past, however, and don't bite off more than you can chew (or be prepared for the cost of replacement)
  • have lots of shop towels and a well-stocked, well-organized tool cabinet; keep it that way by returning any tool as soon as you have used it
  • spread a sheet of paper (such as the rolls painters use) on your work bench; it helps for dirty parts and to have a place to write down sizes and measurements as you go along.  periodically replace it with a new sheet to keep work area clean
Worst/Hardest things:
  • degreasing is much harder than it first seems; it takes longer and more effort than you think
  • derusting is actually much easier and quicker than you might expect; use the right products
  • repeatedly getting hands full of grease and/or chemicals, requiring washing over and over
  • going back to the same store for the third or fourth time in a week (or a day!) for something you forgot, or did not fit as you had expected
  • putting your faith in a part or fitting and finding it does not work, so you have to go back to the drawing board (and/or you wasted time and money on a thing which you'll never get back)
  • waiting
  • waiting
  • waiting
  • spending stupid money on the one thing you can't do without
One final bit of advice - don't be too anxious to finish the project, or move on to the next step.  It can consume you and alienate those around you.  Have faith that it will eventually be complete, and resist the urge to rush the process.

Thursday, September 15, 2016

Before and After

Now that the project has reached 'near final' status, its not too early for a before and after comparison.  A short test ride this week highlighted a few issues to chase down, however.  These include optimizing the shift linkages, sorting the rear brake, and working on the throttle response/fuel delivery.
right side, before

right side after





Tuesday, September 13, 2016

Final Checklist

These are the last items on my (hopefully!) last checklist before a first ride is possible.  Now that they're almost all checked off, I'll be riding the Moto Guzzi again soon!


Saturday, September 10, 2016

Getting Closer !!

A test ride is just a few short steps away:
  • When replacement pegs and linkages come in, fitment of fabricated shifter and brake required.....
  • When clutch cable is cut down and a new end stop fabricated....
  • When seat pan is cut and reshaped to allow for rear fender.....
  • When carb float bowl o-rings come in......

In the meantime:

Friday, September 9, 2016

On Wheels Again

The project is finally back on its own two wheels again.  The engine stand is gone!


Shifter (&brake) Linkage

Since the start of this project, nothing has puzzled me more than how I was going to set up the brake and shift levers. 
I have spent hours in research and more hours in thought over the best method for achieving efficient shifts, drawing diagrams and mashing various possibilities together.  On a few forums there appeared to be little worry over the shifter side when replacing stock pegs with rearsets, but concern on how to set up the brake.  I felt the opposite problem, since the brake side has a spline shaft to which a shorter lever could be fit, or some other linkage arm attached.   There are no rearsets which accommodate the rear drum setup on the 850T; they all seem to pick up from later models (while almost identical have differences), leaving me with the task to engineer a linkage.  Part of the problem is in the frame plates designed to support both the brake rod as well as the shifter rod.  As I had to keep the brake rod (drum rear) I could not simply toss these frame plates, or come up with a way to also keep the shift rod (it is attached to the shift pedal).
I decided on the Tarozzi brand rearsets and picked up a set of pegs and shift levers from Fast From The Past (as shown below).  Jim substituted one linkage arm for the idea I had in mind.




Tarozzi brand rearsets and levers


For the shift side, I finally settled on running a spline shaft through the frame plate/bracket and connecting it to an arm to activate the transmission input shaft (but not without going back and forth dozens of times as to whether this was really the best path).  Part of my concern was in introducing any slop in the linkages, especially side to side or up/down movement when transferring a down foot movement into a forward linkage movement, then into a downward transmission shaft movement.  
First called for buying a drill large enough to accommodate the size of the spline shaft provided with the rearsets.  Unfortunately (which I still find hard to believe) 16mm is the smallest spline shaft size they make.  This meant finding a 5/8" drill bit to go through steel (grumble, grumble, $25 later - all in all I spent $100 more in tools and linkage parts in addition to the $300 original cost of the rearsets).
Taking the leap with any irreversible step is the hardest part; once started, you are committed and it gets easier to keep going.  I leveled and secured the plate for drilling the 16mm (5/8") hole.  It took a while but after roughly 30 min of drilling the hole was made.  I stopped just short of the end since I could see that the 16mm hole left very little steel remaining on either side of the cupped section (which was for the stock shifter rod).  I figured I was going to have cut off some of this cap anyway, to ensure the length of the spline shaft aligned with the transmission linkage.
So cap end cut off; and notice in the photo below the arm that had to be shortened as well (cut above where new hole marked with Sharpie).  Just a new hole still to drill in this to accept a linkage rod end.  And cutting of bushing for tight 16mm fit.

The final linkage set up (without rod ends yet) is below, along with an 'exploded' view.  I bought a bushing that I modified to fit snugly over the spline shaft, as well as butt against the bracket and the linkage arm to minimize sideways or up/down movement.  All fits very snug; as long as the leverage provided by the shortened arm is ok, will hopefully work great!  At this point, a few rod ends are on order to complete both brake and shift sides before they can be mounted on the bike, adjusted and tested.