So it has taken some time to work up the 'nerve' to chop the fenders, but this project really calls for this step to help keep a 'factory' cafe look, yet far enough from the 70's era.
Plan - using photoshop, I modified a photo of the bike by 'removing' pieces of the front and rear fenders to get an idea of how much to cut off. I eventually determined that both required quite a bit, but wanted them not to actually look chopped. I also determined that this would entail a visual estimate or 'eyeball', and that hopefully an inch one way or the other would not be a problem. Fortunately I did not have to find out as the proportions I ended up with were perfect.
Template - for the rear, I felt that the shape of the stock fender was already a pleasing and proportional shape, if somewhat flat. So for the rear, I simply traced the rear shape onto thin cardboard.
For the front, the flat-ish shape was not going to look right with a shortened top and bottom. I modeled the shape from the front fender of a '90's era Ducati.
I ended up cutting a full 6" off the rear. From the front of the front fender a little over 1" came off at the tip, and a little more around the sides; 6" came off the bottom of the other side of the front fender.
Process - A few strips of blue painter's tape were placed on the fender. The template was taped onto the fender and used to draw the curve of the new line. Keeping a center line was the hardest part of this approach and with the templates used (that and actually making the first cut). Application of the template onto the fender was done by eye.
Cut-off wheel from HF - this 4" cutoff wheel works great. The pressure of the compressor needs to be kept up for best operation (+90psi). Any less and the wheel will catch and stop too often.
First cuts - the photo above shows a practice cut to get the feel for following a line and how much pressure/time was required to make a shallow cut and then cut all the way through. Also tested was a curved line; several YouTube videos demonstrate straight cuts perpendicular to the desired line of cut, taking 4 times the effort and leaving a jagged edge. Why? I found quickly that enough pressure to make an initial groove even on a curve was enough to follow and eventually cut through. After a few minutes of that, it's time to get real.
My recommendation would be to brace your hand against the fender firmly and approach each cut with intent; too little pressure allows the wheel to glance off the surface, risking errant cuts. This was also why I left the fenders in place so they were already firmly attached to something and made firm accurate cuts easier.
After cuts - photos of the fender after cuts completed, but before smoothing and finishing of edges. This was accomplished with abrasive pads on an angle grinder:
End result - I am extremely happy with the end results. The shape of the rear matches the stock fender. The new shape of the front works perfectly with a narrower front tire and the shorter length of the fender. Neither has that 'chopped' look and should work well when painted.
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